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At Nordic Approach, our obsession with quality begins long before coffee reaches a cupping table. It begins in the soil, in the hands of farmers, and in the nuanced decisions they make at every step of cultivation and post-harvest processing. If you're a newer buyer or just starting to explore specialty coffee more deeply, understanding how quality is built in the early stages will help you buy more confidently and cup more critically.
The Pre-Harvest Puzzle
Everything starts with the cherry, and that cherry’s potential is shaped by environmental conditions and agronomic practices. Soil is often overlooked in casual conversations about coffee, but it’s the invisible engine behind a plant’s health and resilience. Ideal coffee-growing soils are free-draining, deep, and slightly acidic (pH 5 to 6).
Volcanic red earths or sandy loams are optimal, especially when rich in organic matter. But even with the best soil, over-fertilisation can sabotage cup quality. For example, excessive nitrogen may boost yield but dilute flavor, creating lighter, more bitter beans, as observed in studies from southern Ethiopia.
Altitude plays a parallel role. Higher elevation slows cherry maturation, which means the sugars and organic acids have more time to develop. This translates to more complex, denser beans. It’s one of the reasons why, all else equal, coffee grown at 1900 masl will taste radically different from that grown at 1200 masl, even if the variety and processing are identical. That said there are origins where you can find amazing coffees at lower altitudes, but it often requires specific micro climates that compensate, and different and adapted varieties.
Effective pest and disease management also shapes final cup quality. Coffee is vulnerable to leaf rust, berry borers, and other threats that sap plant vitality. Beyond pesticides, diligent organic farming, cultural practices like pruning, intercropping, and predator insect promotion, help keep pest populations in check without compromising soil and biodiversity.
Harvest and Ripeness
Selective picking is the first human checkpoint in quality control. Only fully ripe cherries should make it into a specialty lot. In places like Ethiopia and Kenya, most harvesting is done by hand, which allows producers to select only ripe fruit. In Brazil and parts of Colombia, mechanical harvesters may be used, but these require significant post-harvest sorting to avoid under- and overripe cherries from tainting the lot.
Under- or overripe cherries affect more than flavor. They can introduce fermentation defects, create uneven roast behavior, and lower the overall score of an otherwise high-potential lot. Getting this part right is a matter of training, incentive, and labor availability.
Post-Harvest Processing — Where the Magic Happens
Once harvested, cherries must be processed. The method used has a massive impact on flavor, body, and shelf life. In general, there are three primary processing methods: washed, natural, and honey. More recently, experimental fermentations like anaerobic and carbonic maceration have entered the scene, adding complexity and controversy.
Washed (Wet) Process
The washed process focuses on the seed itself. Cherries are pulped and the mucilage removed through fermentation—either dry or in water tanks. The cleaner and more controlled this step is, the cleaner the resulting cup will be. Water temperature, fermentation time, and microbial activity all play crucial roles. For example, in Ethiopia, a typical fermentation takes 24–48 hours depending on ambient temperature. Too short, and the mucilage won’t break down; too long, and over-fermentation flavors creep in.
After fermentation, parchment is dried on patios or raised beds to around 10–12% moisture. Managing the depth, moving the parchment consistently, and potentially resting them in piles when temperatures are too high or too low, ensures even drying. Slow, consistent drying improves shelf life and preserves flavor integrity.
Natural (Dry) Process
Naturals involve drying whole cherries with the pulp intact. This process demands careful management to avoid mold, fermentation defects, or over-drying. Cherries are laid in layers and turned frequently. The depth and layers of the first days will determine the level of fermentation. Thicker layer, more fermentation, thinner layer less fermentation. Drying takes between 10 and 21 days depending on weather. Naturals can be intensely fruity, but only when executed with precision. Poorly managed naturals risk tasting boozy, earthy, or phenolic.
Honey Process
This hybrid method involves removing the skin but retaining some mucilage during drying. The result is a profile that bridges the acidity and clarity of washed coffees with the fruit-forward body of naturals. Honey processing is particularly common in Central America and is highly sensitive to drying conditions.
Anaerobic & Carbonic Maceration
Experimental fermentations have gained popularity in recent years, especially among producers seeking to differentiate their lots and attract premium buyers. In anaerobic processing, cherries or pulped beans are sealed in oxygen-deprived tanks, promoting unique microbial activity that can emphasize tropical fruit, spice, or floral characteristics.
Carbonic maceration borrows techniques from winemaking. Whole cherries are placed in sealed tanks and carbon dioxide is introduced. This environment favors intracellular fermentation, known for intense aromatic profiles and velvety textures. Both methods are highly sensitive to variables like temperature, pH, and cherry quality. Done right, they can create show-stopping coffees. Done poorly, they produce instability and wild, inconsistent cups.
In Part 2, we’ll explore what happens after parchment is dried—from dry milling and grading to export and final quality control. If you’re buying green, you’ll want to understand how grading systems work and why they matter (and sometimes don’t). Stay tuned.
